
When in western Norway, exploring the dramatic landscapes of Hardanger in Hardangerfjord is essential. Gentle terrains provide delightful hikes, as you loop the third longest fjord on the globe and stand upon world-famous cliff, Trolltunga.
Those embarking on the 10-to-12-hour hike to Trolltunga are wise to rest up in style at Utne Hotel, Norway’s oldest hotel to operate without closure since 1722. Away from the hustle and bustle, this is a place for calm contemplation, crystal-clear air, and fizzy champagne. The next morning, fill up on a hearty breakfast, pack a lunch-bag, then march your way to one of the best views in the region - the one from Trolltunga’s magnificent perch.
Once done, you’ll be ready for hakkasteik (pork, veal and mutton minced meat with barley) and a refreshing Hardanger cider from Hotel Ullensvang. It’s the perfect place to refuel and recharge post-Trolltunga, with exquisite Norwegian fare and a sauna and pool boasting panoramic views of the fjords beyond.
WHERE TO STAY

Just south of Bergen and driving distance from Hardangerfjord is Os, a quaint municipality with a rich past. Its history dates way back to 4000 BC: visitors can inspect 12th-century cloisters and explore the island of Lysøen, home to the 19th-century summer villa of legendary violin virtuosos Ole Bull.
Another Os-based hideaway worthy of a sunny retreat is Solstrand Hotel & Spa - winner of the Historic Hotels of Europe Spa Award 2017. Holidayers of the past would surely have recognised this Norwegian gem and approved - it’s lost none of its 19th-century charm but gained hot therapy pools, saunas and an outdoor pool for evening star-gazing. Take a fjord bath from the all-year-round bathing pier or ask your Solstrand hosts to organise a boat excursion around the fjord from the hotel’s deep water quay.

From the moment you arrive, feelgood Oslo gets to work on your soul. When you reach the city, hurry to Grünerløkka for some of the coolest brunch spots in town, before exploring architectural gold towards the Royal Castle: Norway’s parliament, National Theatre and university all stand here. If you’re going to venture inside anywhere, make sure it’s the National Gallery - Munich’s famous painting The Scream awaits.
Viking ship museums, the world’s largest sculpture park: days-out in Oslo mean maximum culture. To stay directly in the city’s beating heart, check into Camillas Hus. Tucked directly behind the Royal Palace and within walking distance of Oslo’s main attractions, this 150-year-old building is not only convenient, but extraordinary. For one, it’s one of the city’s oldest wooden buildings in Swiss-chalet style, but it’s also named after author Camilla Collett, often referred to as the first Norwegian feminist.

Aurora-hunters can do no wrong finishing the last leg of this west-Norwegian trip in Svalbard. As well as being polar bear paradise, these icy lands are also an enchanting place to discover untouched Arctic wilderness among fragile vistas. Tracking down the northern lights is a must in Longyearbyen, which offers rare conditions for aurora activities - you may even spot them at lunchtime.
Spend the day husky-dog-sledding or snowshoeing, or try your hand at glacial ice caving if you really want Arctic adventure. To go further ahead, book a boat trip to Prins Karls Forland to watch a walrus colony in action.
Snowy conditions require something to seriously warm the cockles, so set your compass to Huset, the world’s most northernmost fine dining restaurant and wine cellar. You probably won’t want to leave, the vino collection is one of the largest in the Nordic region, with 20,000 bottles to pick and choose from. Here, you’ll be treated to a five-course menu with an array of Nordic flavours infused into everything from reindeer and seal to grouse and goose.